Growing Garlic - Tips and Ideas

As I have been harvesting my garlic and enjoying so many of the rewards of such a great addition to my garden, I thought I should share a few thoughts and tips on how to grow garlic successfully in Utah.

Growing Cycle of Garlic

First, if you have any space at all, garlic is a fun, easy, and rewarding option for your garden.  It's growing cycle is not the common April to September growing cycle.  It grows from October to the following June.  It is planted about the time that you are putting the rest of your garden spaces to bed for the winter.  It is the first thing green to poke through the early spring snow.  It produces garlic scapes in May and provides wonderful bulbs of garlic in June.  Most garlic that you harvest can be used for seed the next growing season.  So, use the tips below and try growing garlic.  It is definitely rewarding!

Start With Good Seed

I started by ordering seed from an online seed catalog.  Some of the suppliers seen to have smaller bulbs and not as good of quality of seed.  This last order, I ordered German Hardy hardneck porcelain type seed from Filaree Farms.  I have really enjoyed this garlic.  It is solid quality seed.  It does well in out Utah soils.  The end product is very large, easy to peel cloves.  It gives you the benefits of garlic scapes in May and wonderful bulbs in June or early July.  

Preparing And Planting

I like to plant my garlic in a raised grow bed 27-30 inches wide in well drained soil.  Since garlic is a heavy feeder, I mix in a little 16-16-8 garden fertilizer into the bed when preparing.  I also include as much compost as I can get my hands on.  In the bed, I plant three rows of cloves each 6 inches apart and each clove 6 inches apart.  This provides for plenty of room to feed and bulb.  I plant the cloves 3-4 inches deep using a small hand gardening trowel.  Remember to plant the cloves root side down. Plant your garlic by the last week in October, about the time you put your garden to bed for the season.  Now, sit back and wait and enjoy the rewards.

Early Feeding

About February you will start to notice some green poking up through the ground.  If you still have snow, it may take a bit longer to show through the snow.  By mid March, your garlic will be in full growing mode and will need an early feeding.  There are several ways to do this, but I have had the best success with mixing up water soluble fertilizer and watering it with a watering can.  I drench the new plants as much as I can.  It takes several cans to water all my garlic, but is is worth the effort.

Garlic Scape Production and Harvest

By May, your hardneck garlic plants will be between 18 inches and 24 inches tall.  At that time, out of the top of the plant, you will notice a slender shoot growing out of the center.  It is just a little bigger in diameter than a pencil and will grow very quickly.  It will be curly at first and very unique.  These are garlic scapes and are full of garlic oil.  I like to harvest them as soon as they have grown but before they start to straighten out.  Harvest them by cutting them off right where they grow out of the plant.  You can sell them, cook with them, use them like minced garlic cloves, or make garlic scape pesto (my favorite).
Harvesting Your Garlic Bulbs
One of the most asked questions I get about growing garlic is when to harvest it.  Since the bulbs are in the ground, it can be a little tricky to know when to pull or dig your garlic.  There are two methods that most gardeners will use to determine harvest time.  The first is to leave the garlic scapes on the pants and wait for them to straighten at the top of the plant.  When the scape is totally straight, it is time to harvest.  I prefer the dead leaf method.  If you wait until the lowest 3-4 leaves on the garlic stock have dies completely, then the garlic is ready to harvest.  See, these leaves go down into the ground and "wrap" the bulb with the papery wrapping.  If you let 3-4 leaves die, then the bulb is ready for harvest and hardening.  Plus, you get to use the scapes instead of leaving them on the plants.

Hardening Bulbs For Storage

Once you dig the bulbs, be careful not to bruise or damage them.  I like to leave them laying on the ground where I dug them for a day or so to start the drying process.  Be careful not to leave them in the sun too long, they can sunburn making them harder to store.  Then I carefully gather them up, leaving the stocks on them and move them to a shaded but warm area, like under a deck or in a shed with some ventilation.  I lay them on cardboard and let them dry for several days until the stocks are totally dry and brittle.  This could take a couple weeks. Once they are totally dry, I trim off the sticks, leaving about 1-2 inches and I trim the roots off.  I then rub them clean and store them in a cool dark place.  They should store until at least March or April.  At this time I sort out some of the bulbs and put them in a separate container and mark that for seed in October.

Summary

I love growing garlic.  It is such an easy addition to my garden.  Take care to store your seed for next year properly from this year's harvest and you may never need to buy seed again.  Once you grow garlic a few years, branch out with different varieties and types.  It really is a fun and rewarding crop.

Enjoy!

Summer University at Utah Valley University

Each year at Utah Valley University (UVU), the staff are invited to participate in a three day staff development conference called Summer University.  It is a chance to gather as co-workers and enjoy learning, service, food, and fun.

This year, I have the opportunity to share a few gardening tips with a few of my colleagues.  This year the topics will be:

• Lawns with Wolverine Pride: How to grow healthy, green lawns in Utah
• Totally Tomatoes
• Peppers and Onions
• Delicious Salsa
• Great Salsa guide from  Pacific Northwest Extension
• USU Extension Service salsa canning guide

Vertical and Small Space Gardening - Class Recap

I have recently been teaching several classes on Vertical and Small Space Gardening.  It seems to be a popular topic lately.  We all seem to have smaller spaces than we would like and are looking for ways to improve and maximize the spaces we have to increase produce production.

So, to make it easier for people to find this information, I have decided to post the presentation here.  Please let me know if you have any questions, or if you would like to have a class taught to your group!

Putting Your Garden To Bed

For many years, I started my vegetable garden growing space when everyone else usually does...in the spring after a long winters nap.  My energy for gardening was highest at that time and I attacked the yard, the flowerbeds and the vegetable garden with vigor and excitement.  Unfortunately, my soil type and location didn't always match up with the timing of my energy burst.  I would find myself trying to mulch, till, shape and plant in soil that was either too wet, too cold, or not quite ready to be woken up.  This delay was usually because of the dense clay I have in my gardening soils. This isn't too much of a problem in my flower beds or other places in my yard because I am not trying to prepare those beds usually at this point in the spring. But my vegetable garden...I had to get in there early to get those delicious peas and other early crops growing! Such a quandary...what to do?  Gardening can be so stressful!

Then the light dawned on me...what if I do all the "heavy lifting" of preparing my vegetable beds in the fall and let them sit through the winter?  Maybe that would work.  After a few research sessions on Google and talking with a few of my fellow Master Gardeners, I decided that by preparing my vegetable beds in the fall, it would be beneficial in several ways:

• Provides a great way to compost left over garden waste, and green waste (shredded veggie plants) in a large quantity
• Gives an opportunity to prepare a flat bed veggie space into raised beds while the soil is dry and warm
• Easy to amend and break up the soil before it is cold and too wet
• Allows for very early planting without disturbing the growing beds
• Helps warm the soil early for earlier germination of vegetables
• Allows for fall planting in the new beds at the right time (garlic, lettuce, etc.)

Now, preparing your vegetable beds in the fall does require that you have just enough gardening energy left to "put your garden to bed" properly in the fall.  But, if you push through and can get those beds amended and formed in the fall, your spring planting and summer vegetable production can be increased dramatically.

So, here is my process for preparing my vegetable beds in the fall and putting my garden to bed for the winter:

Step 1:  Take the garden down and shred all vegetation and excess vegetables for easier composting.  Please note, do not shred or attempt to compost any vegetation that exhibits any sign of disease, fungus, or deformation.  Remove this type of vegetation and dispose properly.

Step 2:  Spread the newly shredded material evenly over your vegetable garden space.  Add additional shredded green waste (leaves, grass clippings, etc) to the desired depth of organic matter.  I prefer to add between 4-6 inches of shredded organic matter to my garden each fall.

Step 3:  Sprinkle a light layer of ammonium sulphate (21-0-0) or urea (48-0-0) fertilizer across the layered organic matter.  This helps with the composting of the organic matter during the winter months.  The amount will be determined by how much new organic matter you are using to amend you garden space. I usually apply approximately 1 pound (2 cups) per 100 square feet.

Step 4:  Using your preferred method of breaking up the soil, mix the organic matter and the fertilizer into the soil.  I use a rototiller, but I know there are some that prefer a broad fork or other method.

Step 5:  Form the soil into raised beds.  I measure 30 inches and pull a string.  Using a shovel, I scoop out he freshly loosened soil out along the string creating a sort of "trench" to walk in.  I spread the loose soil on top of either side of the trench.  The trench is the walk space and the "raised beds" remain undisturbed.

Step 6:  Leave your garden undisturbed through the winter months.  Start planing your early vegetables as soon as the soil dries and warms to the appropriate levels.  I can easily start planting my peas by the first of March.








If you have a chance, you should try preparing your garden and putting your garden to bed in the fall.  The benefits will amaze you!

Where Can I Plant Vegetables In My Yard?

The short answer to this question is “Anywhere you have the proper growing conditions for the plants you want to grow”.  So, for those that have limited reading time, stop here and grow grow something.  For those who would like a bit more detail, pop some popcorn and settle in for a good read.

The longer answer to this question can be explained best by looking at the requirements of any plant:

• Soil type preferred (growing medium)
• Water requirements
• Light requirements
• Growing period needed

Soil Type (Growing Medium)

Soil is probably the most important factor when trying to produce a quality vegetable.  If the soil doesn’t fit the vegetable, the outcome will be less than desirable.  Some soils are sandy and others are more clay based.  Some have little organic matter, others have no soil in them at all (soil-less mix).  The list can go on and on.  The important thing is to make sure that you are growing the vegetables in the right medium for best results

Water Requirements

There is nothing worse than to do the work of putting in a garden and then not having the right amount of water available to see those vegetables thrive.  Their water requirements will depend on the variety and type, your climate and location, and the availability of water on site.  For instance, if you have to haul the water to your garden in a bucket everyday, chances are, those vegetable will not get watered as often as they should.  At least that would be my case.

Light Requirements

Every vegetable you plant will need a certain amount of sunlight.  Some can grow well in a  cooler, more shaded area, such as lettuce and other leafy vegetables.  Others need all the sun they can get, such as watermelon.  It is important that you give the right vegetables the right amount of light.

Growing Period

If you want to feel successful in growing vegetables, make sure to try varieties that will mature in your growing season.  For example, I would not try and grow a long season wine grape in my yard in Utah.  I just don’t have enough frost free days for a great quality wine grape.  But concord grapes thrive great on my north property line.

Being the inquisitive person I am, I have several types of growing areas in my yard and I try different things each year.  I have a dedicated garden plot, some grow boxes, a few flowerbeds, a couple containers, and a window sill.  (I’ll try and include some pictures of each through this next year)  My garden plot is about 30 feet by 30 feet with a dedicated drip system for watering.  My grow boxes consist of two 3 foot by 5 foot boxes filled with a soil-less planting medium.  The flowerbeds are full of flowers except for some spaces here and there where certain vegetables can be grown and enhance the landscape design.  The containers sit on my patio or porch where needed and can work great for herbs and flowers.  And the window sill is a great place in the house for sprouts, herbs, and staring seeds.

I guess my bottom line advice to you would be to try and put vegetables where ever you have the space and watch and learn.  Through some effort, you will be able to find what you can plant where and get some incredible results.  And in the words of Larry Sagers (Instructor for all Utah Advanced Master Gardeners), “If is doesn’t work, tell people that it was research.”

When Do You Begin The Gardening Season?

Well if you are anything like me, by the end of November, you are ready to put your gardening tools away for the winter (and you hope it is a long winter).  And then, by the middle of January, you can’t wait until spring arrives and you can get your fingers into the soil again.  For me, this creates quite the mental and emotional dilemma.

Luckily, I have found that I can feed my garden addiction in late December to early January by spending the week between Christmas and New Year’s Day pouring over the piles of catalogs that I subscribe to and start planning out the vegetable garden for the next year.  This is a great time of the year to plan things out for the upcoming spring and growing season.  And this is what I consider to be the beginning of my gardening season.

– side note –I guess it is time for a confession…not only am I a gardener, I am a planner.  Some would consider this a character flaw, and someday…maybe I will outgrow it.  But for now, spreadsheets, graphpaper, pencils, sticky notepads, and a calculator are really good friends of mine.
– end side note –

So, with my spreadsheet of my current seeds in front of me and a stack of wonderful seed catalogs, I nestle myself down with a cup of hot chocolate and start perusing.  As I look through the catalogs, I look for any new varieties that might catch my eye and tag them with a small sticky note.  I also look for the “tried and true” varieties that I may be running low on my seed supply and tag those in the catalogs.  With my catalogs tagged and sticky notes everywhere, I am ready to start to plan out my vegetable garden plot. Now, my vegetable garden consists of a few different pieces, including a dedicated growing plot, some grow beds, and some spots here and there throughout my landscaped yard.  For details on my garden plots, you can check out my “Where Can I Plant Vegetables In My Yard?” blog post.  I start planning where I will be planting what and usually plot it out on some graph paper. So, for those of you that are itching to get started with gardening this year and don’t know what to do with 12 inches of snow outside, this is a great relaxing exercise that prepares you for the coming growing season. 

Why don't You Start A Gardening Blog?

If I had a dollar for every time someone asked me this question, I would be able to support my gardening habit instead of having to sell pints of plasma.  Seriously, I am doing this more for all those who have requested it than anything else.  There are few things I love more than gardening, and sharing gardening tips is definitely one of them.

So…to all you gardeners out there, I am glad you kept asking me to do this.  Hopefully you will find benefit from what I share.

A little about me and gardening…

I started gardening as a kid and all I remember is having to pick the rocks out of our quarter acre garden every spring in Utah.  This was less than inspiring, and by age 15, I swore I would never garden “when I grew up”.  I left home and gardening behind at age 19 when I left for an LDS mission in England for two years and didn’t think I would ever return to working the soil. Oh how wrong I was.

At the age of 23 and newly married, I found myself in an duplex apartment that had a 4 foot by 10 foot flower bed that was begging to grow something other than weeds, and the gardening itch had me so bad, I had to grow something.  From there on out, the addiction has just gotten worse (or better depending on your point of view) over the years.

Now, I am an Advanced Master Gardener in Utah and find great enjoyment and relaxation in working the soil, seeing things grow, seeing other things die (weeds), and teaching workshops and helping others find the same enjoyment in the garden.

So, I will try and post informative tidbits and tips on gardening here and hope you find them interesting and useful.  Remember, I garden in Utah so, if you want to use any of these ideas in your garden, you will need to adapt them to your location and needs.

Let me know if there is something you would like to know about.  I’m glad to share if I have any information on the topic.